10. Leaving Town

sawatdee krap

Dear friends and family - 

In two days I will begin my trip to Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. During the next three weeks I’ll include travel information for others who may follow in my footsteps, for your entertainment, or for those who are curious about how to get around Southeast Asia. Of course people have all kinds of opinions on how to get from here to there--all of which are worth considering. I read travel advisor blogs (Lonely Planet) and someone will say “OMG--Don’t take that twelve hour train or bus or boat--it’s total hell. You’ll get mugged, malaria, blah, blah.” I’m not interested in negatives. No doubt the safest, and most uneventful, way is to fly. I write stories and take pictures--that’s what I do--so I’ll take some risks--and pray they are colorful and harmless. I also bought Thai Traveler’s Insurance. (a one month premium comprehensive package for $80) 

- Click to enlarge -
Chiang Mai - Bangkok - Phnom Phen -
Saigon to Hanoi - Vientiane, Laos -
Back to Chiang Mai

I’ll begin my trip with the $20 twelve hour overnight sleeper train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok--which was not recommended. I decided to take it instead of flying ($50), nevertheless. I rented a room in a guest cottage near the Bangkok train station ($25 a night)--for two nights. From there I decided against the 3rd class $3.50 cattle train to Siem Reap, Cambodia in favor of the $26 1st Class bus. After three days in Siem Reap, visiting the temples at Angkor Wat, I will head to Vietnam. Unlike Cambodia, where they stamp your passport at the border ($20), I had to go to a travel agent here in Chiang Mai and it takes three days to get the Vietnam visa stamp ($62).  I’m still not sure I want to go to Phnom Phen, Cambodia or Saigon (big cities I really don’t need to see), so once in Siem Reap I’ll figure the best way to get to DaNang, Vietnam. (Expedia’s quote for the flight is $730US) I’d rather charter an elephant! The travel agent was very helpful - maybe she has a better idea.

Red turtle and blue gecko?

I think my trip actually began as soon as I walked out of the travel agency. There was this German guy sitting at the cafe next door minding his own business. I couldn’t help myself. “Wow! What’s going on with your head?” I walked around and into the cafe to get a closer look, now seeing that the art was quite silly. I asked him if his whole body was tattoo’d. “Ja.” He was wearing a jacket (it was 95 degrees) and long pants, but was considerate enough to first show his neck and then pull up both sleeves--revealing zero available real estate from his wrists on. So I asked, “Do you have tattoo’s everywhere  . . . even on your . . ?” He answered “Ja” and I winced. “Can I take a picture?” He thought I meant of his head, and bowed. (here’s the picture) Then this American guy around my age appeared out of nowhere. He hadn’t heard the second “Ja” or seen me wince, and he started blabbering, “Can you imagine anyone crazy enough he have their d-- tattoo’d?” I tried to save the reputation of our nation by explaining that the Maori would have every inch of their body tattoo’d, even their tongue. (I made that part up). The German guy looked at both of us like WTF? and I realized that I was suddenly one half of two stupid Americans--so I disappeared as quickly as the first stupid American appeared.

You can buy this wall

After four months I’m still loving Chiang Mai. The Thai people here as so gracious, even though I am learning about levels of discrimination. I admire their patience, when I myself sometimes want to lose it with so many of the arrogant western tourists. If I decide to stay I’ll end up moving ten miles out of town where I can rent a stand-alone two bedroom house--furnished with a fountain and yard for $325 a month. Of course not all farangs are arrogant and obnoxious. There is another level of “World Citizens” —mostly expats from one country or the other who no longer consider their birth country home. I sort of qualify--before this trip I lived the last thirty-six years of my life outside of the continental US - Alaska and Hawaii. This week I met a whole bunch of remarkable people - Renee, who spent the last sixteen years in Liberia, Peter who sells leather goods off Ibiza, Spain and speaks six languages fluently, an Iraqian/Frenchman--and for the last twenty years--Thai nuclear surgeon, and Sherry and Pol, wonderful new/old friends who now live in Kauai. And I’m being recognized by local Thai’s. This week at the Sunday market this old potter who hand makes amazing celadon dragons told me he’d give me his “friend discount” (6000 baht ($185) for me and 9000 baht for anyone else). When I get back from my trip I want to spend time in his studio. btw--I went back to see my plastic surgeon (sounds vain, but not) and already two weeks later my scars are beginning to disappear. Here he is--Dr. Somboon.

So - I'm looking forward to all the wonderful places I'm about to  see - and the fascinating people I'm about to meet. Maybe I will write more than a weekly blog and send more pictures. Life is good and I'm enjoying each and every day.

My love to you as always,

David Dakan Allison